Improved stitch for button-holes



W. WEWUNG.

Sewing Machine Buttonhole Stitch.

Pa tented Feb. 18, 1862.

NITE STATES WILLIAM WEITLING, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

IMPROVED STITCH FOR BUTTON-HOLES.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 34,454, dated February 18, 1862.

' having the objectof producingthe same stitchwork by sewing-machines; and I do hereby declare that-besides the specification and drawings of my patent dated the 29th of October, 1861, showingin general that my stitchwork can be made by sewing-machines, and in special how such sewing-machines may be constructed and operating-ahe following is a full, clear, and exact description of the combination of loops and stitches of which this stitch-work consists, and of the different forms of stitches it may produce, reference being bad to the annexed drawings, making a part of this specification in which drawings-- Figures 1, 2, and 3 are plans of my stitchwork divided in sections. Fig. 1 represents one side of it in two different forms, and Figs. 2 and 3 represent the other side of it in four different forms.

My stitch-work is composed of three threads.

(Marked red, blue, and black in the accompanying drawings.) The red one is stitched through the cloth by the sewing-machine needie; The blue one is carried through the openin'gof the button-hole by thethread-carrier but while the needle and the thread-carrier are descendin g, and before they are stitching through the cloth and through the opening of the buttonhole, or before the thread-carrier, in descending, reaches the edge of the cloth, when the operation has the object of edging, the blue thread is laid in loop form before the needle,

through which loop form the needle stitches, and which loop form is thus checked on the upper side of the button-hole or edge by the thread of the needle. Thereby a stitch is produced on the one side of the edge of the cloth, or of the button hole, as shown by Fig. 1, a and b. a shows the stitch narrow and tight, and b shows it wide and loose. Both of the threads-that of tbevneedle and that of the thread-carrier-in rising again form loops under the plate, through which loops the shuttle or its equivalent passes, the thread marked black in Figs. 2 and 3, thus checking both of these loops on the lowerside of the buttonhole or edge, as shown by Fig. 2, c and d, and Fig. 3, e andf, c and 6 showing the stitch nar-, row and tight, and d and fshowing it wide and loose. Either one of the three figures may represent theupper side of the'button-hole, or of the edging, according to which side of the cloth is laid on the plate when the stitches are to be made. The loops forming below the plate on the lower side of the edge of the cloth or of the button-hole may also be checked in different directions, and thus produce different forms of stitches on this side of the buttonhole or edge, according to which of the two lower loops is made to be caught first by the shuttle. ,If the blue loop is caught first, a

stitch is produced as shown by Fig. 2, c and d. If the red one is caught first, a stitch is produced as shown by Fig. 3, e andf. The yellow represents the gimp generally used for binding button-holes.

Having thus fully, clearly, and exactly dewhen passing through the cloth, loop-checks the other, passing round the edge of the cloth, and both of these being loop-checked on the other side of the cloth by the thread of the shuttle, orof its equivalent as within set forth.

WILLIAM WEITLING.

Witnesses JAMES PURDY, R. RErcHEL. 

